In Merdeka
Square , on 31 August 1957, the lowering of the
Union Jack brought an end to the British colonial rule of Malaya and the
raising of the Malaysian flag marked the proclamation of Malaysia ’s independence.
It’s not surprising then that this is a national
heritage site and the focus for many other slices of local history.
The square is the big green area in this image, taken from the top of the KL Tower |
The square was developed by the Brits in 1884 and
used as a venue for social activities, including the odd game of cricket. The
flag pole itself, at 100 metres tall and sporting a huge Malaysian flag, is
very impressive and supposedly one of the tallest in the world. Malaysians do
like their superlatives!
And nearby there’s a Victorian-era fountain, that
was apparently brought in from England
in pieces and assembled in situ. My guide book tells me it features some lovely
Art Nouveau tile work but it’s currently partitioned off for renovation so the
tiles weren’t visible. It did have some rather scary looking gargoyle-like
creatures, though.
It’s the buildings that most impressed me about
this heritage area, so let me take you on a tour around the square, starting on
the side of the square that’s bounded by a very busy main thoroughfare. Here we
find some government offices that, when built in 1896, functioned as the city’s
General Post Office. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a photo of the building's ‘polygonad (I
kid you not!) corner stair towers’.
City Theatre |
I did get a photo of the adjoining building, the
former City Hall. Built in 1896 and now used as the City Theatre, this shows
the influence of the local Islamic culture in its curvaceous arches and its chhatris, the dome-shaped pavilions on
its roof. It also has a very grand porte-cochere
– that roofed structure out front under which carriages would once have
been driven.
The former High Court |
Next door is the 1909 former High Court building, with
more wonderfully curving arches, these with more of a Moorish influence, and its
four towers are finished off with lovely black cupolas.
Across a side road, we come to the magnificent
Sultan Abdul Samad building, built between 1894 and 1897. It was formerly the
home to the Federated Malay States
administration, then from 1972 the High and Supreme Courts, and now houses the
Ministry of Information, Communications and Culture. My pamphlet says: ‘The
first example of Moghul architecture in Malaysia , this elegant symmetrical
brick structure features a 41-metre-high clock tower, arched colonnades and
stunning copper-covered domes.’
I've included two photos of this building because I just love those copper domes, especially with the Petronas Towers in the background.
On the next city block is the National Textile
Museum , built in 1905 and
previously the Federated Malay States Railway Station and Selangor Works
department. Unfortunately I don’t have an image of the whole of the building as
I was focusing on the contrast between those wonderful onion-shaped domes and
the modern but equally stunning building in the background. The museum building
features alternating stripes of red bricks and white plaster bands, and also
shows Islamic influences both in its façade and in those divine domes. Inside
are some fascinating displays of the diverse range of textile designs, patterns
and materials produced by the broad range of ethnic groups found in Malaysia .
Crossing the main road and continuing in a
clockwise direction around the square, we come first to a building that now
houses a restaurant but was the home of the Chartered Bank when it was built in
1919. No photo of that, I’m afraid, but I do have the neighbouring building,
what is now the KL City Gallery (note the absence of the word art in that
title). Built in 1898, it is another example of Moorish style architecture with
a large open interior that was purpose-built to house the large printing
presses from its days as the Government Printing Office. Today that space is home
to a shop, selling all types of local souvenirs but featuring, in particular,
products made of intricately carved and assembled wood veneers. The photo
display in an adjoining room was interesting, and the scale model of the
central city in an upstairs room was very photogenic and provided an excellent
city overview (see below).
One of the City Library's domes |
In the corner next to the City Gallery is the
City Library. You can see the entire building in my first image as this shot
only shows one of its glorious domes. This 1989 building was built to emulate
the older buildings that surround it and includes under its roof an auditorium
and conference hall, as well as the library itself.
Moving around to the long side of the square
facing the road, we find the most bizarre group of buildings, of black-and-white
mock-Tudor design with a fake half-timber façade. Built in 1884, these now
house the Royal Selangkor Club, an institution that harks back to the days of
English gentlemen’s clubs and still bans women from its Long Bar. I could say
that I refuse to post a photo of the building in protest against this
discrimination but the truth is that I just found the buildings ugly and didn’t take
any shots of them.
The scale model of the city inside the City Gallery |
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