* my first impression on arrival: the aromatic smell of wood smoke
* the products of Senteurs d’Angkor, where they make candles and soaps smelling of mango, orange, ginger, lemon grass, etc
* sweet frangipani flowers given to us by our masseuses at Phnom Balan
* food cooking – so many flavours, so much delicious food
Sound
* wedding music blaring out over loudspeakers
* the squeaky trumpet used by rubbish collectors to advertise their presence
* the thumping drums from a place near the Globalteer Guesthouse, where local Chinese people practise their dragon dance
* the sound of the family next door pumping water from their well
* dogs fighting at all hours of the day and night
* the fan in my room constantly rotating
* monk chanting amplified from the local pagoda
* the haunting tunes of the Khmer music played by the victims of landmines
Sight
* the garish pinks, yellows and reds of the fabric used to decorate wedding marquees
* monks’ laundry: bright orange oblongs of fabric strung over any handy object to dry
* the magnificent sculptural work on the temples
* a child’s smile
* vehicles of all types piled high with goods and even higher with people
* the painted blue trim on almost every house in the countryside
* the delicate pink of waterlily blooms
Taste
* the spices of the local curry: lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, ginger
* amok served in a coconut -- delicious
* Blue Vesuvio cocktails: vodka, blue curacao and lime, heaped with so much crushed ice it hurts your teeth
* The Soup Dragon’s stir-fried noodles: no. 1 on our noodle-ometer
* the refreshing tang of freshly squeezed lime juice
* trying new foods: the spicy, saltiness of sun-dried shellfish laced with chilli; juicy mangosteen and dragonfruit
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