Beautiful Bodiam

We had a cracking blue-sky day for our visit to Bodiam in East Sussex, and the castle, surrounded by its moat, looked picture-postcard-perfect!

The lord of the manor was soldier and knight, Sir Edward Dallingridge (or Dalyngrigge) (c.1346 – 1393), who had the castle constructed around 1385, in theory as a defence against local rebellion and possible invasion by the French but probably also a statement piece: ‘Look at how rich and powerful I am!’ As a power statement it certainly works.

And I imagine you would feel quite secure in a place like this, regardless of who was trying to attack. The original approach bridge over the moat was to the side, ensuring invaders made easy targets for the castle’s archers; the portcullis was so sturdy that parts of it still survive; and there are murder holes above the entrance porticos, meaning residents could pour hot tar and boiling oil on the uninvited.

Sir Edward gained the manor of Bodiam by marriage. Having accumulated wealth and reputation through fighting as a mercenary in France, he returned to England and wedded the heiress to Bodiam, Elizabeth Wardeux (or Wardedieu).

Dallingridge subsequently served as the equivalent of Member of Parliament for the local area, was made responsible for fortifying various areas of coastal Sussex, and became the most influential member of the local gentry.

The castle’s interior was likely dismantled during the English Civil War (1642 – 1651) but you can still get an idea of the opulence enjoyed by Sir Edward and Lady Elizabeth, though I don’t think National Trust have done a very good job with their displays and storyboards, especially compared to other castles I have visited (see the magnificent Caerphilly here and here). The exhibition in the nearby pavillion was also undergoing refurbishment so I felt a reduction in the entrance fee would have been appropriate under the circumstances For the stiff-kneed also, a warning, the spiral staircases were steep, but the views from the towers and battlements were worth the effort.

All in all, a stunning property: the type of building every child imagines when they draw their first castles, and a dream for photographers, if you go right on opening time, to avoid the crowds. I’d love to see it again shrouded in brooding winter mist and a blanket of snow, or with autumn colour in its stately trees.

Cheshire: the mighty Beeston Castle

I love castles!

Maybe it’s because these are something New Zealand doesn’t have a lot of; maybe it’s a lingering fascination from childhood stories of chivalrous knights and distressed damsels; or maybe it’s the intriguing historical tales associated with them. Whatever the reason, I will never turn down a day out exploring a castle and 13th-century Beeston Castle certainly did not disappoint.

Though now mostly in ruins, its stunning location atop a steep rocky crag sets Beeston apart from many similar fortifications. It boasts three levels for exploration: a Victorian wall and ticket office, totally in keeping with the style of the older ruins; an outer curtain wall and guardhouse half way up the hill; and the crowing glory, the inner curtain wall, gatehouse and ruins that sit on top of this mountainous outcrop.

Looking up to the outer gatehouse

The outer wall and gatehouse

The outer wall and  a taste of the views to come at the top

The kid in me led me to check out every narrow arrow slit and tiny window slot in the crumbling walls.

Looking up to the inner wall and gatehouse

The bridge to the inner gatehouse

Even the modern bridge that spans the vertigo-inducing rock-cut ditch to the inner gatehouse is a cracker. Its steep arching design requires a final effort of leg muscle before the reward of equally breath-taking vistas, and it’s the perfect prop for photogenic images.

Surprisingly, there's a 100-foot-deep well on the top of the hill. Apparently, it’s the legendary hiding place for King Richard II’s lost treasures.

For the most part, Cheshire is a county of plains and low rolling hills so, for me, one of the very best things about Beeston Castle was the spectacular panoramic views from the inner bailey. On a good day – and we had a beautifully clear day – you can catch a glimpse of Chester and Liverpool, 10 and 22 miles away respectively, and you can also see the Welsh Mountains, which are 30 miles distant in a north-westerly direction, and the Pennines, which are the same distance to the south west. If you dare, you can also check the view straight down – 500 feet straight down, that is!

When you’ve seen enough of the green and pleasant Cheshire countryside, you can head half way down the hill and, just outside the outer gatehouse, take a left to connect with the woodland trail that meanders around the entire site. Its leafy shade was welcome on a warm day and at a couple of spots you can catch glimpses of the castle towering high above, though mostly the tall trees obscure the crag.

The end of the woodland walk brings you to a surprise feature, a series of 18th-century man-made caves (inside picture here) that may once have housed stables but have now been walled up to protect visitors from themselves and to protect the colony of bats living within.

And, at the very end of your tour of mighty Beeston, don’t forget to check out the shop where English Heritage has a selection of gifts and souvenirs for sale, where there’s an exhibition highlighting aspects of the castle’s past, and a café for hot and cold snacks, particularly a well-deserved and very yummy locally made Cheshire ice cream!

Beeston Castle was superb on a bright summer’s day but I’d also like to see it on a dramatic, snow-touched winter’s day. Beeston, I’ll definitely be back!