Maesteg: North’s Navigation Collieries office

Though the building itself is quite plain, the decoration above its front entrance caught my eye and so I took a few photos. 

This Grade II-listed building, on the corner of Castle and Talbot Streets in Maesteg, was built in 1908 to house the offices of North’s Navigation Collieries (1889) Ltd. The British Listed Buildings website describes the building as follows:

Built of rubble with limestone dressings, with a slate roof. Flemish Gothic style. The main front to Talbot Street is of 3 bays, and the corner is splayed, returning along Castle Street as one triple and 3 single bays. Two storeys. Narrower central bay has an arched entrance with 2 tall paned overlights and frieze inscribed NNCs 1889 Ltd. Tall three-light windows on the side bays under a flush relieving arch, the original top sash and 2 fixed lights below surviving on the west side. The upper floor of the central bay is gabled and set forward on cusped corbelling, either side of a central window. This has a deep head inscribed AD 1908, and a 2-light cusped blind tracery window above, rising into the gable. Windows to the side bays repeating those below. The roof has a raised coped gable at the left end, and is hipped at the splayed corner, with a metal finial.

It’s interesting that the listing describes the building as being constructed ‘of rubble with limestone dressings’, as that’s not how it was described at the time it was built. A brief article in The Rhondda Leader, on 12 December 1908, reads as follows:

The New Offices for North's Navigation Collieries, Lmited, at Maesteg.
The new offices which Messrs. North's Navigation, Ltd. have built at Maesteg are situated in the centre of the town, at the junction of Talbot Street and Castle Street, with the chief frontage facing these two thoroughfares. The principal entrance is in Talbot Street, and access is obtained to all the rooms on the ground floor by means of a broad tiled corridor running the whole length of the building, and leading to a. stone staircase by which the upper floor is approached. To the right of this corridor are placed the general office and pay office, while to the left are the deputation and waiting rooms and the strong room for the safe keeping of plans and other documents in case of fire. Externally the building is faced with Forest of Dean stone and Bath stone [my emphasis], the general treatment of the elevations being simple in character except at the entrance. The work has been executed by Messrs. Radford and Greaves, contractors, of Derby, under the personal superintendence of Mr. Radford, a partner in that firm and a resident of Porthcawl, the designs having been prepared by Messrs. Pugin and Pugin, architects, of London and Liverpool, who have received the assistance of the mining agent, Mr. Gibbon, in supervising the carrying out of the work.

 
Then I became curious about North's Navigation Collieries and discovered this piece, published in the Western Mail on 8 January 1889

THE DEVELOPMENT OF MAESTEG.
WHAT COLONEL NORTH PROPOSES TO DO.
A ROSY OUTLOOK.
On New Year's Day Colonel North, the "nitrate”' king, who is the head of the syndicate that recently acquired the property of the old Llynvi and Tondu Company, announced when at Maesteg that it was proposed to spend some £50,000 in developing the district. This was, indeed, good news, and further inquiry only adds to the rosiness of the prospect. Though the syndicate do not purpose [sic] restarting the Llynvi Works at present, negotiations are now nearly ripe for acquiring further mineral property to that already possessed—some 7,000 or 8,000 acres—the object being to sink a pair of new pits for steam coal. The output of the colliery when developed, it is expected, will be at the least 1,000 tons a day. It is also intended to erect new and expensive plant for coking and washing, the apparatus to be of the most modern description. The railway communication is also to be re-organised, and new lines are to be laid down for the purpose of bringing the collieries already possessed—two large steam coal and four large bituminous coal concerns—into nearer communication with the main lines. At Tondu the Park Slip Colliery is already being enlarged for the purpose of ensuring a greater output, and a new blast furnace and Coppѐs stoves are to be proceeded with at an early date. With the exception of the new colliery, the whole of the work has been practically commenced, and even the sinking of the new pits is but a matter of a very short time, as the only question is as to their exact location. Already £50,000 has been spent, and it is computed that the further immediate outlay will reach well nigh double that amount. The syndicate, which is known as “North's Navigation,” in addition is amongst the chief promoter of the Vale of Glamorgan Railway, which proposes, not only to accommodate a district that is totally without railway accommodation at present, but, having access to the Llynvi and Ogrnore district, would be an effective means of supplying bunker coal from the Llynvi and Ogmore district, to the Barry Docks. A good authority on the subject says that Colonel North is a most enterprising man, and if the workmen of the district but utilise their opportunity and show their appreciation of what Colonel North is doing, he is the kind of man, not only to deal with the district with anything but a niggardly hand, but to put into it every half-penny that its development may call for.

Colonel North occupies such an important place in public attention just now (remarks the Liverpool Daily Post’s London correspondent) that anecdotes about him are being told everywhere. Although his display of riches may be ostentatious, his generosity is admitted on both sides. On the occasion of the coming of age of his son a party was given in celebration of the occasion. During the supper which formed part of the proceedings the colonel handed to his son a cheque for £10,000, not as a portion of the patrimony, but as a little present with which to buy some memento of the occasion, or to take a little holiday.

Somebody has been making up a list of Colonel North's recent purchases. There was £100,000 for his estate in Wales, £60,000 for the whole of the statues and pictures in the Italian Exhibition, and now £10,000 for Kirkstall Abbey, besides the little bill at the Metropole, which will probably come to about £2,500. This gives a total for these things alone of £172,500.

It was recently reported that Colonel North’s colours would shortly be seen on the turf. It may now be taken for granted that such will be the case, for the gallant colonel, who was such a large purchaser of greyhounds at the Barbican last December, has now two horses in training—Iddesleigh and Mirror—with R. Sherwood, at St Gatien House, Newmarket. Iddesleigh was purchased on his behalf (and not for Lord Randolph Churchill, as previously reported) from the Kingsclere Stable, and is said to have cost1,000 guineas, whilst Mirror, a four-year-old filly by Speculum out of St Helen’s, won three races last year and two in 1887. Both should do good service for their new owner.

 [The portrait above is from The Aberystwith Observer, 30 November 1893.]

This Colonel North sounded like quite the entrepreneur. An entry on Wikipedia describes his life more thoroughly; I have just extracted the part relevant to Maesteg:

John Thomas North (30 January 1842 – 5 May 1896) was an English investor and businessman.

In Britain he set up North's Navigation Collieries (1889) Ltd. in Glamorgan, south Wales, a venture which turned out to be one of his most successful. By 1920 his Welsh company employed over 6,000 miners and produced over one million tons of coal per year. The development of North's Navigation Collieries Ltd. was largely responsible for the rapid growth of Maesteg and the Llynfi Valley during the years 1890 to 1910. 

[The portrait above is from the South Wales Daily News, 6 May 1896.]

Having died in 1896, Colonel North never actually saw this office building that bears his company’s name. As he died at the relatively young age of 54, I wondered about the cause. This report, which I have abbreviated, and the portrait shown below are from the Evening Express, 6 May 1896:

The Nitrate King Gone
PASSED AWAY IN HIS SON'S ARMS.
Died as he Lived in the Midst of Business Excitement and Worries.
Colonel John T. North, head of North's Navigation Collieries and chairman of several great undertakings, dropped down dead at his office at half-past four on Tuesday afternoon from a fit of apoplexy. At the time of the fatal seizure the gallant colonel was presiding at a meeting of directors, and death is stated to have been almost instantaneous. Medical aid was at once summoned, but the doctor on his arrival pronounced life to be extinct.
[The article goes on to report the reaction amongst colleagues and the business world, as well as more details of the manner North’s death – he had earlier eaten a meal of oysters and they were initially suspected as a possible cause but his death was later confirmed to have been the result of a heart attack.]
THE COLONEL'S CONNECTION WITH MAESTEG.
The news of Colonel North's death reached Maesteg by wire from the "Western Mail" office. The colonel was chairman of North's Navigation Collieries (Limited). He had visited Maesteg once since the purchase of the Llynvi Collieries, in 1889, and on that occasion made a present of £500 to his workmen to celebrate his visit. He was presented with an illuminated address by his workmen at Maesteg, Tondu, and Ogmore. The local Conservative Association invited him to stand at the last general election as a candidate for them in the Mid-Glamorgan Division, but he regretted that he had consented to contest the West Leeds Division. All the workmen at Maesteg, Tondu, and the Ogmore Valley held Colonel North in high esteem, because he was a munificent contributor to all funds started on their behalf. Although he seldom visited the district, he was fully informed, and took a hearty interest in all local matters, even to mere trifles. Great sorrow is felt throughout the district. 

I had no idea when I took the photos of this building in Maesteg where my subsequent research would lead me but that is exactly why I enjoy looking more closely at the built environment around me.

Maesteg: Drinking fountain

I’ve only been to Maesteg, a town at the northern end of the Llynfi Valley in south Wales, a couple of times, and then only to look for dragonflies at some local ponds. However, when I was there earlier this week, I had a little time to kill before catching my train home, so enjoyed a short walk around the town centre. 

Maesteg is this year celebrating its 200th anniversary, and has some impressive historic buildings; I really must take the time to explore further. 

On this occasion though, what immediately caught my eye was this monument in the town ‘square’ (it’s actually more of a triangle), situated at the intersection of three streets and located immediately in front of the former Town Hall. 

This was once a functioning drinking fountain, and has been designated by CADW, the Welsh government’s historic environment service, as a Grade II-listed monument, labelled the William Hopkin Thomas memorial lamp and fountain. From the CADW website listing, the exterior is described as follows:

Pink polished granite with grey granite. A die raised on two stepped plinths, having water basins on 2 sides and the back and front inscribed recording the erection to William Hopkin Thomas, doctor, local benefactor and chair of the local eisteddfodau, one side in English, the other in Welsh. The die has delicate etched decoration and is gabled, and carries a cylindrical terminal domed structure supporting a heavy cast iron cross which once carried three fine lamps. 

When I got home, a search of the Welsh Newspapers online website, revealed several newspaper articles describing the fountain’s presentation to the people of Maesteg. This is from the South Wales Daily News, published on 28 November 1900:

LATE DR. W.H. THOMAS. J.P.
PUBLIC MEMORIAL AT MAESTEG.
A drinking fountain in memory of the late Dr. W. H., Thomas, Bronygarn, was presented to the public of Maesteg on Tuesday. The structure cost over £200, and stands in the most central position in the town, near the Town Hall, North's Memorial Hall, and the railway stations. Flights of steps in Forest of Dean stone lead to a landing eight feet square, upon which stands the fountain proper, which is of solid granite (swede red). Surmounting the structure is a standard for three lamps. The whole work reflects the greatest credit upon Mr J. L. Jenkins, the contractor, and Mr W. H. Rees, architect. There are two drinking basins fitted with aluminium cups and chains. On the eastern side of the fountain is the following inscription:—"Erected by public subscription as a memorial of William Hopkin Thomas, J.P., M.D., M.R.C.S., Maesteg—a man valued by all for his professional skill, respected for his integrity and uprightness, beloved for his geniality and kindness of heart." On the opposite side is a similar inscription in Welsh.
At the ceremony of presenting the memorial to the public there was an exceedingly large gathering. The Rev. Stephen Jackson, vicar of Llangynwyd, the Rev. Iorwerth Jones, chairman of the Executive Committee, Mr Thomas Rees (Hen BIwyf), and Mr Rees Rees, D. C., spoke of the good work done by the late Dr. Thomas. The Vicar of Llangynwyd then, on behalf of the committee, presented the drinking fountain to the public. Mr D. Beynon, J. P., chairman of the District Council, formally accepted the gift, and the assembly sang “Hapus Dyrfa” to the tune St. Garnon, Mr S. Davies, G. and L., conducting. Mr Stephen Lewis acted as clerk of works gratuitously. 

Dr Thomas was obviously a much loved and well respected pillar of the Maesteg community so I looked also for an obituary. The following was published in the South Wales Daily News, on 14 April 1899, and included a sketch of the man himself:

DEATH OF DR. THOMAS, J.P., MAESTEG
Dr. W. H. Thomas, of Maesteg, died suddenly at noon on Thursday. He had been out visiting patients with his son from 8.30 in the morning, and returned to his residence, Bronygarn, about 11.15. He was preparing to go out again to the upper district when he complained of internal pains, indicating heart trouble, from which he had suffered. He yielded to his son's persuasion to take a little rest, and was about re-entering the house from the backyard when he was seized with faintness. He suddenly became unconscious and died almost immediately in his son's arms. Dr. Frost, the assistant, was sent for, but the deceased gentleman was beyond human aid. We understand this was the fourth attack of a similar character which he had experienced during the last five years. The deceased was a son of the late Mr Thomas Thomas, grocer, Maesteg, and was 58 years of age. He was a member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England and M.D. of St. Andrews University. After taking his degrees he spent two years in Ebbw Vale and then came to Maesteg, where he acquired a large practice, patients visiting him from the adjacent valleys and also from the Rhondda. He was a justice of the peace, and a member of the Maesteg Council, heading the poll at the last contested election for the East Ward. He never took an active part in politics, but it was supposed that his vote generally went on the Conservative side. He was genial and generous, of cheerful disposition, quick and active in manner, and indefatigable in his labours. He was a strong patron of the Eisteddfod, and encouraged music and Welsh literature. He was for some time medical officer for Llangynwyd Higher, under the Neath Board of Guardians, and was also medical officer under the old Maesteg Local Board. He was chief surgeon and medical attendant of the workmen employed at Garth Merthyr Colliery and at Oakwood Colliery. Twice was he presented with a public testimonial, because he rendered a fair share of his services gratuitously. On the last occasion he received an illuminated address, an oil painting of himself beautifully framed, and a purse containing £600. He commenced his practice in Maesteg about the year 1867, and did conspicuous service during the cholera epidemic which occurred about that time. He leaves a wife and seven children. One of his daughters was to have been married to Dr. Kirkby, of Glyn-corrwg, on Wednesday next. Much sympathy is felt for the bereaved family. The funeral arrangements are not yet known, but it is likely that the interment will be at the parish church-yard of Llangynwyd, where his parents are buried.

It seems a great shame to me that this drinking fountain is no longer in usable condition. 

You would think it would be possible to reconnect the water pipes, refurbish the connections within the monument, and remove the granite slabs that have been placed above the basins.

In these days of drought and heatwaves, a free source of water would certainly benefit the local community, and the William Hopkin Thomas memorial lamp and fountain could then continue to be a functioning and useful tribute to the good doctor in whose honour it was commissioned.

The mystery of the Nonpareil Market

This decorative stone plaque, bearing the inscription ‘The Nonpareil Market 1889’, now sits very incongruously atop an archway over a path into an estate of modern, rather ugly flats and houses in James Street, Cardiff Bay. Prior to its relocation, it was displayed at the top of an imposing stone building that stood very close by, on the corner of James and Louisa Streets, which, in 1889, contained the business premises of butcher Frederick Ward, and Solomon Andrews, an entrepreneur who operated a grocery store at this location but had his finger in a great many other pies. 

I am not the first person to have wondered about the origin of the Nonpareil Market name, nor the first to have spent time researching to try to find an answer, and I will probably not be the last. As part of an excellent series of blogs exploring the buildings shown in the superb artworks of Cardiff artist Mary Traynor, David Webb, a volunteer at Glamorgan Archives, produced the blog Nonpareil Market, James Street, Cardiff, published in January 2018. Despite his extensive research, Webb was unable to find an answer to the Nonpareil Market mystery, but his blog is certainly worth a read, and it includes an image of Traynor’s lovely watercolour of the building to which the plaque was once attached. You can also view a photograph of the bricked-up building, taken in 1985 prior to its demolition, on the Tiger Bay and the World Collection website. 

In 2014, in a guest post on the blog We Are Cardiff, contributor Jeremy Rees also wondered about the Nonpareil name, admitting that

All I can glean is that Nonpareil was the name of a sugar plantation in Guyana, South America – I know that many Guyanans settled in Tiger Bay and the Docks so that may be a clue, but as to where the stone came from and why it’s there, that’s still a mystery.

The mystery of where the stone came from was solved by David Webb but not the name. As I like a good challenge, I too have tried to discover the origin of the Nonpareil Market name. A search of the Welsh Newspapers that have been digitised and made available online on the National Library of Wales website revealed no information on the name Nonpareil Market. However, the word nonpareil appears in 3011 entries (reduced to 2637 if I selected the English language option), a total that rather surprised me. Even more surprising were the contexts in which the word was used:

• there were references to the collisions and wrecks of both a sailing ship and a steamship of that name;
• a fabric known as ‘Nonpareil’ velveteen was advertised as ‘the richest, softest and most becoming fabric ever produced’;
• the boxer who was middle-weight champion of America in 1889, ‘Dempsey, the Nonpareil’, who had been beaten in a prize fight and so was no longer the ‘unequalled’;
• a racehorse competing in the Zetland Plate at York, named, presumably, by an optimistic owner;
• an apple, grown on the North Aston Hall estate, which was for sale in 1909: ‘it was in the grounds that the “Nonpareil” apple was introduced into this country from Normandy in 1593 and called “North Aston apple”, or “Folk’s apple”.

It seems usage of the adjective nonpareil was much more common in the 19th and early 20th centuries than it is today, when we would be more likely to use adjectives like unequalled, unrivalled, or unsurpassed. And that, in turn, made me wonder whether the name Nonpareil Market was simply a boast by the entrepreneur Solomon Andrews that his ‘grocery store’ was, in fact, a market for goods and produce that was unequalled by any other in the Cardiff area. The truth is we shall probably never know, but I have passed an enjoyable stormy afternoon trying to find out.