I know it’s no longer fashionable to use alliteration
when composing a title for a blog / article / whatever but I couldn’t help
myself. Mevagissey is another of Cornwall ’s
magical, captivating, picturesque, charming and quaint old fishing villages, and
it really was magnificent.
Mevagissey is named after two saints, St
Meva (or Mevan) and St Issey, who were, apparently, Irish saints who brought
Christianity to the tribes of Cornwall ,
but human occupation in this place goes back much further. Bronze age arrows
have been found locally, and the Romans had a camp, named Colonia, at nearby
Chapel Point.
The traditional industry is, of course,
fishing, with large quantities of sardines and pilchards appearing in regular
seasonal shoals along much of this coast. Several of the historic buildings
around the walled harbour relate to the fishing industry, and would have housed barrel makers,
sail makers and boat repairers, as well as net lofts and basket weavers.
According to a sign in the village, in its heyday the pilchard fishermen landed
between 12 and 15 thousand tonnes per annum – that’s a lot of fish! At that
time, there were up to 30 large fishing boats operating out of Mevagissey but
nowadays both the number and size of the vessels are much smaller.
The sign also explained why the narrow
streets of Cornish fishing villages like Mevagissey meander circuitously around
the harbour, rather than being in any kind of grid pattern. In the 18th century
Mevagissey was notorious for being a smugglers’ lair, with brandy, gin, tea,
silks and fine lace, as well as tobacco, all passing quietly through, and the
suggestion is that the town’s streets were deliberately ‘designed to impede the
efforts of the enforcement officers’. Sneaky!
We meandered with the streets, walked up
the hill for a panoramic view, walked out along both sides of the enclosing harbour
walls, had the obligatory Cornish pasties for our lunch (backs to the wall
again so as to deter the gull pasty thieves), and mooched around the gifty
shops (still hunting for that elusive present for our cottage owners – great excuse,
eh?). It was all simply splendid!
I’ll round off our visit with a couple of pub signs. The 16th-century Ship Inn sports a glorious sailing ship and it has a fabulous story of a resident ghost, a former landlady who
protects the inn from flooding. And the Fountain Inn is
even older – the building dates from the 15th century, though wasn’t always a
pub. The interior still contains evidence of its use for pilchard processing in
the 18th and 19th centuries. We visited neither of these places but both
definitely sound like they’re worth a visit ... or six! Obviously, I’ll need to
go back one day.
No comments:
Post a Comment